Pondering on Prom and Pier with Jane Matthews
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1
Art + History = engagement
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Jane Matthews is the Engagement Manager at Oriel Mostyn Gallery.
We met in the community engagement room, full of old photos and
comments about the history of the town.
Her walk, this walk, is informed by history:
"Because I’ve been working on the History Series at the
gallery for about 3 years, I find that when I go out into the
town, it shapes the way I think all the time. I’m thinking about
the people I’ve met and the buildings they lived and worked in
or were connected to. The cemetery at St Tudno’s church on the
Great Orme for example, if I’m going round there, I’m saying
hello to them. I’ve been reading about them – quite a few of the
great and good that we’ve been talking about in the exhibitions
are up there so they feel like old friends. So that’s changed
how I think about Llandudno.
"I’ve been here about 10 years. We moved here in 2007 when
my daughter was in the 3rd year at primary school. Her dad is
Welsh and Welsh speaking, so we wanted her to have a Welsh
education. I started learning Welsh, I’d been learning anyway
for a few years. I was intending to have one year off but it
turned into 3, having a lot of Welsh lessons. I understand more
than I say. You have to wait a long time for a reply! I was
doing 3 classes at once. In one group I was the only one there
after a while, so I was traumatized when I came out. After a few
exams I thought I was seriously going to have a heart attack in
the oral exam. I speak Welsh in the gallery with visitors from
time to time. Many of our staff speak Welsh to varying degrees
and a bilingual person has just joined us, so we are trying to
use the language more to keep up our skills.
"I started off invigilating in the gallery, and now I’m
Engagement Manager. When Adam Carr, the Curator, devised the
History Series I spent a lot of time on the research and
presentation of historical materials alongside my colleague
Richard Cynan Jones. This involved working closely with local
people to set up the exhibitions in a way that would appeal to
our community and to visitors to the area. After the expansion
of the gallery 2007 – 2010, we realised that many in the local
community felt they couldn't relate easily to some of the
contemporary art on show. Adam then had the idea of having the
History Series as a way of encouraging people in to find out
more about the town and surrounding area and about the art.
"So the history was woven in and out of the contemporary
art. It was done differently every time. It got people to engage
with the artwork when they were not used to contemporary art –
they would often come to the entrance to the first gallery and
we noticed it was like a force field and some people daren’t
come any further. So they’d go out. Now we’ve found with the
history, they’d say – ‘oooo’ – they’d recognize the museum
format. They’d look at a vitrine for example. Not look at
anything on the walls. You could see people scurry to look at
something - 'ah! I recognize the way this is'. They’d
read about the history. Then they’d look up and they’d ask ‘so
what’s that then?’ about a contemporary artwork. You’d tell them
and they’d feel so much more relaxed and able to start a
conversation and then start looking at other works. Now that
would never have happened if they hadn’t first been made to feel
comfortable in the space by the history. With some of the
exhibitions they couldn’t tell the difference – whether it was
history or art. What is it, what’s being shown here? So it was
really interesting in terms of people who visited, and in terms
of setting up the exhibitions, because we made sure local people
were very much part of it by telling their stories and showing
their artefacts and photographs."
[What’s different about history in an art context?]
"The unexpected context of it. Some people who come to see
the art question why is the history here. In a way we are using
it as an engagement tool but Adam uses history to look at
contemporary life. I think a lot of contemporary exhibitions and
contemporary artists are using history and artefacts as part of
their work. I don’t really see them as mutually exclusive. When
we were investigating the history of the building we found out
about the school of art, science and technical classes which was
in this building and we created an exhibition about that. We had
no idea about this and it had passed under the radar of local
historians so it was a very exciting exhibition to work on. At
the turn of the century this gallery was presenting art
alongside natural history exhibitions, science, lectures on
marine biology, all in the same building. This was replicated in
Chester and all the cities. Big societies were formed and they
didn’t separate art from science. So maybe we’ve lost something
along the way by making the divisions we do now. I think people
have engaged with our exhibitions in quite a natural way. If it
was presented academically, people might not engage with it in
the same way
"Over 3 years we had 9 exhibitions, but now the funding
for that has gone. We didn’t want to end that form of engagement
as it has been really successful, so we are keeping this room as
a community space and we show local material with a link to the
main exhibition spaces. People contribute memories and
photographs over the length of the exhibition, so the display
grows. Lots of visitors come several times to see the latest
additions".
[So tell me about the route we are going to do today]
"I don’t get much time to go out. But if I do, it’d be a
short run down the Prom, down past the Imperial, sharp left.
This is the route we are going to do now. It brings out twofold
memories – the projects from work, and going along the Prom with
my daughter. It's unavoidable when you walk along the
seafront: it’s a space for thinking."
We step out of the gallery, into a very wet, very windy day....
2
Intrigue: Lady Augusta's vision, the Gwynedd Ladies
Arts Society and the Polytechnic
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Intrigue: Lady Augusta's vision, the Gwynedd Ladies
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Almost as soon as we leave the building, I spot a plaque on the
wall.
Jane says:
"Lady Henrietta Augusta Mostyn. A guiding light in the
development of Llandudno. There’s another plaque on the post
office as well - that one is to George Alfred Humphreys - and I
like the connection between the two. I’m quite interested in the
architect – GA Humphreys, he was quite a mover and shaker in the
town. We come across him quite often – he was Lady Augusta’s
right-hand man and although he started out as an architect he
ended up as the chief agent. And he was the one writing letters
about this and that - about quality of work and so on - when the
Gwynedd Ladies’ Art Society were in the gallery between 1901 and
1903. He had a lot of responsibility and wrote on behalf of Lady
Augusta. "
The one thing about her was that she had in her mind that the
building wouldn’t just be an art gallery - that’s where people
get confused, so after some research we don’t think it was an
art gallery built specifically for women artists.
"Looking at letters and committee reports over the past
couple of years, that is not apparent at all. She always wanted
it for the good of the town and for local people but she never
said it was built specifically for lady artists. Indeed, she
doubled the rent paid by the Gwynedd Ladies’ Art Society after a
year. She was a huge supporter of the arts, but she says in one
of the letters she wanted it to be a polytechnic. They [the women artists]only had one room. They hired out other rooms to other things.
"So although it says that in the entrance to the gallery,
it's not for definite, and I think she wanted more than
that. I think it was about development at first. For her, as she
was building the town, that was going to be the centre of the
town, the station, the gallery, the post office, and then it was
all meant to go in one sweep through Craig-y-Don. But it hasn’t
ended up like that, and Craig-y-Don has always been quite
separate. So the Mostyn gallery was intended to be, reading
between the lines, at the centre of the town. So it’s
interesting that it’s always been on the edge.
"She was trying to move the centre away from over
there[pointing to the old part of town, which nestled in the shadow of
the Great Orme].The post office as well, that was originally down the other
end of the town. It moved up here. There was a furore in the
town and people were writing to the papers. The parallel again
to just recently, when the post office closed down and moved to
WHSmith and people were again writing to the papers.
"Obviously that’s why she placed the gallery here. She
intended that the Gwynedd Ladies were going to be selling their
work to draw people in. So again there’s a parallel because she
was trying to get people up here, just like we are today.
"The artists were selling works, but I think what was
irritating her was that many of the ladies weren’t local – a lot
of the Art Society members were from Manchester, Birmingham,
London. They’d be here for the summer, do a bit of painting,
leave their work and go off and collect the cheque. She didn’t
want it to be like that, she wanted it to be for local people.
"But then having said that, local people did come and use
it as a school, because the school of art, science and technical
classes virtually opens before the Gwynedd Ladies leave. I think
you’d have to be more an expert in social history, but from the
little I know, I’m presuming that they wanted to keep people out
of the pubs. The idea was really to give people gainful
pastimes, that they would study art, crafts and other subjects
to use any leisure time profitably, educationally. But again if
you look down the list of who went to the sessions, it was
teachers and people who already had some sort of qualification
or interest or independent means. So again, it’s probably got a
parallel with us in a way, because we are trying to be open and
inclusive with our exhibitions and events. The History Series
has helped here by bringing in people who would not necessarily
consider themselves contemporary art lovers. Some of our recent
events have had over 25 people attending and most have not had a
previous connection to the gallery or to contemporary
art"
3
Arts and Regeneration?
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Arts and Regeneration?298m / 978ft ~ Approximately 4 minutes
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We cross Bog Island, and look at the scaffolding surrounding Tudno
Castle, which has been used in recent years as a venue for various
art exhibitions, and is soon to be turned into a Premier Inn with
a Beefeater restaurant.
I ask Jane about the role of arts in regeneration.
"Regeneration is quite a tricky one isn’t it? I don’t
think we are in the position some places are in. There are
places which are completely run down, but this is quite a
thriving community on the whole with some areas which would
benefit from some form of regeneration. It’s not like you would
need massive funding for a regeneration of a complete area. When
that happens then local people can get pushed out. There’s a
balance… I think it’s valuable to use art to regenerate an area,
but then sometimes it can change the place completely. So I’m
not sure about that one. It’s a thriving town, I mean a lot of
hotels have been full over the summer, even now there are people
pottering up and down. In winter it’s never empty, not like some
resorts which turn into ghost towns over winter. I think if you
change the nature of the town too much, it could lose its appeal
completely."
4
Serenity and the Problem of Pebbles and a Disappearing
Beach
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Serenity and the Problem of Pebbles and a Disappearing
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"It’s a really lovely place. I think of all sorts of
things just walking up and down here. It makes you feel very
serene, it’s that beautiful curve. It makes you feel very happy.
"I think the beach is a problem, you’ll hear people who’ve
probably told you about how there was a lot more beach, and that
putting all these stones here have ruined it. I never walk on
the pebbles because I nearly broke my neck on there, it really
does put you off. I think there always were pebbles but not so
far up here. There used to be 4 or 5 steps, you’d sit on the
steps and then there was beach. And the whole lot has been
covered. More have been put on there the past few years as a sea
defence. I'm not sure of the dates. When things change
gradually you don’t notice do you? There’s a lot in the paper
about it.
"There were at times a thousand deck chairs out on the
front here. They were the fastest deck chair people in the west.
They could apparently get them up and down so fast…and now you
hardly ever see a deck chair. You think it’s busy, but then you
see the pictures from years ago and realise how much quieter it
is now, but that’s because more people holiday abroad.
"The donkeys used to have a really good run down here. Two
families – one that side, one the other side. But trying to run
two sets of donkeys from that little tiny beach now would be
impossible. All of this was beach, there were people everywhere.
It is nice to see in the old pictures. It’s quite startling when
you see it. I’ve never seen it like that. Then you can see
photos of when the donkeys used to go down the roads when the
tide was in. Imagine that now! "
A lot of the local people who have lived in Llandudno for a
long time, have worked with the donkey families when they were
children, in the school holidays, helping with donkey rides. The
Hughes family started their business in the late 1800s. John
Jones has the current North Shore business and his father
started this in 1949. John knows so much about what goes on
around the beach area. They keep the donkeys in various places –
there are some donkeys up on the Orme, others go out to various
farms in the local area in the winter. The donkeys have their
own Facebook page. So have a look on there.
"The band used to play regularly. They had a mobile
bandstand at first. In the olden days they’d be out every night.
What a huge commitment for band members. People have told me
that they could never go on holiday because they were needed to
be in the band."
5
Family businesses - and Punch and Judy - in
Llandudno
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Family businesses - and Punch and Judy - in
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"In the second show we did about the post office, it was
concentrated on the family businesses represented in some way on
a postcard. One family had been selling postcards in the town.
George Robert Thompson was called the Postcard King because he
had various shops around the town selling postcards. Everyone
knows the family connected with that.
"Kath Smith, who’s in her 90s, has been wonderful as a
source of information, and she knows all the local families. Her
husband John was GR Thompson’s grandson and he managed the shops
too. The people who had the shops knew everyone. Kath tells me
you’d come down into town, and you’d be speaking to people from
local businesses all the way down. That is what is so different
to Llandudno today. Because you knew everyone, it tied the town
together. But it’s all disintegrating isn’t it? The social
fabric is changing completely. I’m sure it’s replicated
elsewhere, but to see it is sad. Llandudno will have changed,
that’s purely looking at the businesses.
"The Punch and Judy people are 5th generation, for
example. So they are lovely as well, brilliant. They store the
booth over there on the pier, when it’s not used (see point 7).Sometimes Jason does weekends in September, depending on the
weather. It’s a very old method of entertainment, but you see so
many children still loving it. He showed us some of the original
puppets, that were made from driftwood from the beach.
Amazing."
[Is the show still the same, eg is it still as violent?]
"He’s taken out some things, it was really quite
interesting what he took out and what he kept in - not always
what you'd expect. I talked to him for quite a long time
about how he’s changed it. I think he said the original show was
much longer and they’ve cut the length of it. Some of the
storylines have been changed too to reflect current
thinking"
6
The Money Show
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"I don’t come in here as much because my daughter is older
now. Carys liked the 2 pence machines and various others – there
was one, an Egyptian pyramid thing that was spinning and you had
to flip the 10p down one of the holes as it went round. It was
good fun and I did it once! They somehow were more friendly
machines. These are more aggressive, sparkly.
"We always had a go on the air hockey then sometimes we’d
get an automatic drawing. She was really lucky. She used to win
quite a lot. She was good at the one with little skittles
hanging down, she could hit them time after time – she won £7
once. When she was really little, she used to call it The Money
Show!
"I came down here with work friends a few weeks ago. I’ve
got some tickets in my pocket
[she pulls some out]. I’m saving them up!"
7
A concentrated history point
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A concentrated history point96m / 315ft ~ Approximately a minute
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"So look, there, there’s so much history just in this one
spot!
"This is the Punch and Judy booth and the top part is
original from the late 1800s. This is where they store it. The
show has passed down directly down through the family and the
current person who does it, Jason Codman Millband, is married to
a daughter of the family. "And above the booth, you can see the old steps to where
the Pier Pavilion used to be. It used to seat over 1000 people.
The plans they’ve put forward, for luxury flats, it’s absolutely
awful. It would dwarf the Grand. If you have luxury flats above,
how long will it be before they complain about the pier, about
it being too noisy? It won't be long if they’ve paid out a
lot of money.
"We looked at the Pier Pavilion in one of our exhibitions.
And to be able to still see it there, for me, every time I come
this way, I always come and look at this little staircase. It
still feels very much part of the town. It's still in
people’s memories a lot… I don’t know if it is still feasible,
but people are always talking about indoor entertainment. I
think the difficulty is it was so big… you’ve got Venue Cymru so
you don’t want to replicate that, but it would be so much more
suitable as an entertainment venue rather than flats.
"More recently, they had all sorts of things in the
Pavilion. In the 1950s there were boats but they ran on
electric, it sounds extremely dangerous, like a dodgem top, but
boats! There was a wax works… It was absolutely huge, a lot of
political conferences were in here and orchestral concerts and
variety entertainers…"
Including, I added, the legacy that Mrs Thatcher decided to go
into politics at the Conservative Party conference there...
8
Parisian visitors
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Parisian visitors63m / 207ft ~ Approximately a minute
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We walk onto the metal steps that link the pier with the back of the
Grand Hotel.
The sea is roaring, waves crashing against the rocks and the rain
now chucking it down.
There is rust on the steps and the underneath of the balconies
above.
"We had some artists over from Paris last year. We ended
up in the Grand and it was karaoke night. It was us, a group of
artists from Paris and hotel guests. It was a weird mix but
really fun. We ended up exploring, and came out on the
balconies. The views are stunning. You can see how this was a
great hotel".
Given the weather, and the impending jink in the pier, it seems
like a turning point. I ask Jane if she would carry on.
"Quite honestly once I’m on here, I often go to the end.
If I was time conscious I might just turn round and go back at
this point, yes. I don't mind the weather though. Shall we
carry on?"
So we do.
9
Lace from Nottingham, shells from Thailand
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Lace from Nottingham, shells from Thailand171m / 561ft ~ Approximately 2 minutes
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"I love all these stalls up here, some of them are a bit
bizarre. Sometimes it’s too much excitement for children, one
thing after the other, but a lot of fun. We haven't done a
show about the Pier yet. We've left it in case it fits in
with something else. I like to do things properly. Just think,
all the families that would have had booths here would have
known each other, as well as the donkey families, Punch and Judy
and so on. Then the boats used to come in on the end there.
Imagine, thousands of people coming in every day.
"This is my favourite stall. It’s so funny, these
creatures. When I was little I would have bought the Snail Voice
Choir. I’d have taken something like this back for my
grandmother, when I went to Scarborough. Some of them – the
shells round here – are from round the world. Look round here:
what a great mix, Nottingham lace and sea-shells from
Thailand!"
10
Ships, windmills and social media
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Ships, windmills and social media121m / 397ft ~ Approximately a minute
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We stand to admire the view through the rain.
The windmills are busy. "
I don't mind the windmills. In fact I really like them.
The future! We need to do more like that".
A large ship looks like a giant island in the distance.
"It causes great excitement – when ships go past. People
put it on Facebook and talk about what it is. One Facebook site
is https://www.facebook.com/groups/91560190640/and on there if people are puzzled about what’s going on, they
post a question and someone usually knows. It could be anything
like a ship in the bay, or simply a police car somewhere. They
post old photos, history of some kind and current topics. If
I’ve put something on there, an old picture or something, people
immediately respond and share more pictures. We have
reminiscence sessions once a month in the gallery.
"We have a talk next week on the Deganwy Bathing Pool,
also known as West Shore Lido. The housing development locally
called 'Legoland’ is on the site now. There used to be
swimming and diving competitions there, dances, knobbly knees
competitions and in later years it had a zoo. We are calling it
' From the first plunge to the last porcupine', Then
after that we’re having a session about trams."
Later, while uploading this information, I check out the facebook
page. This is a really active community. Most recent posts
include:
"Does anyone know what the shop that used to be a bed shop
next door to James Paynes is going to be?"
[20+ replies, with lots of comments about how they feel about
the town and what the town needs to thrive]"Anyone know what’s happening near venue cymru traffic
bumper to bumper and car park on Mostyn Champneys is just
gridlocked no roadworks that I could see" [30+ comments in reply, involved discussion about how to
resolve traffic problems]"You used to drink in 'The Wash'".
[Pictures of the Washington, now Dylan's restaurant 104
likes]
11
Ladies toilets
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Ladies toilets114m / 374ft
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We didn't really talk about this. But I thought it looked a
bit like us. Walking along next to each other, where other ladies
have been.
12
Air hockey (4-5)
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Air hockey (4-5)29m / 95ft ~ Approximately a few seconds
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We had an energetic and well-matched game of air hockey at the end
of the Pier. On the table next to us, two teenage girls played
their own game. Their game started before ours and they
weren't finished by the time we had. This feels significant,
but I'm not sure why.
13
IWTH: Across at Happy Valley: Plaques and
entertainers
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IWTH: Across at Happy Valley: Plaques and
entertainers369m / 1211ft ~ Approximately 4 minutes
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We battle against the wind and rain as we head off the Pier. We spot
two plaques: Walter Beaumont and Malcolm Sargent. One of them is a
QR code with a link to HistoryPoint, a source of information both
Jane and I use (with many thanks to John Lawson- Reay):http://historypoints.org/“Professor” Walter Beaumont, a professional swimmer, used to give
spectacular high diving demonstrations off the pierhead at
Llandudno. He also amazed the public with his underwater displays in
a glass-sided tank in the Egyptian Hall at the Pier Pavilion.
Malcolm Sargent was a 'world famous orchestra conductor'
whose early career was launched in the Pier Pavilion. We look across
at Happy Valley. Jane tells me of how Happy Valley used to be the
site of huge performances. In the 50s, of the performers, Waldini
and his Gypsy Band appearing during the summer holidays at Happy
Valley on the Great Orme, Llandudno, between 1953 and 1960. There
were normally 2 shows daily, a matinee and an evening performance,
at which people could pay for a seat within the "iron
curtain" (a low mesh fence around the perimeter of the open-air
theatre) or sit and watch the performance free of charge from
"Aberdeen Hill", a mound rising to the north of the site.
Being in the open air, Happy Valley was prone to the weather.
"If it was wet, everyone would get up and they’d parade
together down to the town hall and carry on the show. Waldini’s
motto was – I W T H – If Wet, Town Hall. I’ll send you a picture
of it, on his jacket. His saying."The motto included a
picture of sun, a cloud, rain and Happy Valley. "That carried
on with Alex Munro, a later well-loved entertainer [see point 15]
A few years ago the contemporary artist John Henry Newton showed
a work at MOSTYN inspired by this – the motto he used was IWTG (If
Wet, to Gallery)." This is the picture that Jane sent me. 'I W T H'
reminds me of the many people who have said their walking routes -
to the shop, walking the dog etc - are different in different
weathers. Weather is big in Llandudno.
14
The Grand Hotel
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The rain is now so heavy that we decide to pop into the Grant
Hotel for relief.
The entrance hall tells us that here there are no public toilets,
we can't smoke but we can get married. It is hot. And it
smells of hotel.
We are met by a helpful man (I'm not sure of what the
official term would be - the person who meets you in the lobby).
He tells us of the different types of rooms (premier with
sea-views), and the pattern of coach parties they get: Some Monday
to Friday. Others Friday to Monday. It is his second week in the
job, his first after returning to work from being a house husband
bringing up the kids. He'd been in Llandudno for 21 years,
originally being from Manchester. We comment on how us three -
Jane from Yorkshire, he from Manchester and me from Crewe -
reflect the similar demographics of the turn of the century.
Llandudno is a place of Northerners.
A man walks past with snooker balls in a triangle.
I'm going to dig out a 19th Century quote I remember reading
somewhere, about how Llandudno will never be really posh, because
it is so full of northerners.
15
Alex Munro
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We pop over the road to visit Alex Munro Way (previously the Street
with No Name and given this name in 2014). I'd read about it in
the local paper, a suggestion by someone local, that had been taken
up by the Town Council. I was a bit disappointed that his full name
- Alex "The Size of it!" Munro - did not have a presence.
Somehow this reflects a bit on how Happy Valley is today compared to
then. Jane told me of her meeting of Munro's daughter.
"She came to one of our reminiscence sessions to tell us
about her father. She is an actress and singer and has definitely
inherited the showbusiness gene: it was absolutely
wonderful!"
Jane sent me this photo of Anna-Marie Munro taken in the Studio
space at Mostyn with the Happy Valley entertainment section of the
current community engagement project.
It has incredibly similar positioning to the photo I took of Jane
in the same place (but different histories on the wall) at the
start of our walk. It seems to reflect the circular 'history
repeating itself' motif of our walk.
Jane also sent me a picture of Anna-Marie's father, Alex
Munro with the Happy valley audience - 1960s? (the audience is
HUGE!.....)
16
Memorials
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As we walk back to MOSTYN along the Prom, I ask Jane about
memorials in the town, and whether she knows of anyone who should
be memorialised:
"I haven’t come across one specific person, but I’m quite
interested in the industrialists who came here. There were a lot
of people who made money in Manchester and Liverpool but they
were supporting the arts and the gallery. They are the names on
the plaques. Some people committees who supported things
financially but who didn’t shout about it. Those people interest
me. Osborne House down on the front with the Townhouse
restaurant, John Walker, who lived there, was the brother of the
person who built the Walker Gallery in Liverpool. Craigside Inn
on the side there, that’s got a really odd history and I want to
wait till I’ve got time of my own to look into it. I found
someone there who had a big art collection, one of the first
people buying Impressionist paintings. How often he was in the
town I don’t know. Joseph Broome, from Manchester, was one man
who gave a lot to the town at the time. He’s buried in St
Tudno’s churchyard on the Great Orme. That idea of philanthropy,
the people who were contributing financially to the town. People
don’t seem to do that in the same way now"
It strikes me that these are the missing industrialists
that Wanda Zyborska and I were wondering about on Wanda's
search of monuments in Llandudno.
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